Elk Facts

Bulls

Mature bulls are 7 or more years of age and average 800 to 1,100 pounds, stand 5' to 5'6" at the shoulder
They are capable of breeding at two years of age
Top velvet-producing bulls have large circumference beams and mass above the third tine
The antlers’ number of points is influenced by genetics and feed, as well as by maturity
Starting every year in March, antlers fall off and regrow
When harvested in May or June, 20 to 30 pounds of Grade A velvet should be the yield from a mature bull
They dress out at approximately 60% of live weight

Cows

Mature cows are 3 or more years of age and average 550 to 600 pounds, stand 4' to 5' at the shoulder
Most 16 month old females will cycle if they weigh at least 430 pounds
They do not grow antlers
They are very good mothers

Calves

They are born in May or June and spend the first week of their lives in tall grass, usually getting up only to nurse
They are spotted when born and develop their brown coats in six months
Through natural instinct, the cow watches the calf from a short distance, drawing near when it is threatened

Breeding

The rut, controlled by the day/night cycle, is from late August to late October
For best success, breeding bulls should be three years old or older
One bull can service 20 to 40 cows
A bull will gather a group of females and keep them away from other bulls
Bulls compete for dominance through bugling, sparring and chasing would-be competitors away. Injuries are rare
Bulls and cows go through a ritual before the actual "high-mount" of mating
A cow’s gestation is approximately 246 days, + or - 10 days
Artificial insemination is common, with a success rate of 50% - 80%

Calving

All cows will "bag-up" before giving birth
The older the cow, the more "pregnant" she will appear
The cow will start to "walk the fences" prior to calving, looking for a quiet, private place to give birth
Ensure through controlled feeding that cows are not fat, as this restricts the size of the birth canal and increases the size of the calf
Although calving problems are rare, occasionally a cow will need to be assisted. A vet or experienced elk breeder should be contacted for advice on any calving process that is delayed
Most cows will accept the calf and immediately clean it, however, on rare occasions the mothering process will fail and hand raising is necessary

Nutrition

Elk are predominately grazers
Elk eat most upland grasses (e.g. brome) and legumes (e.g. alfalfa)
Elk will consume grains (e.g. corn, oats)
Elk can consume up to 20% of their diet in browse
Elk are efficient convertors of food, the feed intake of 3 elk cows is the same as 1 beef cow
The feeding of cows and bulls is slightly different; therefore, it is better to separate them after the rut
For a cow, post-rut to calving, feed a maintenance diet of good quality hay, grain optional
For a cow, calving to post-rut, feed grain, hay and a high-quality feed rich in protein, vitamins and minerals
Bulls should be fed well all year, but especially in the spring
During winter, bulls should be fed a much higher quality diet than that of cows, so that they can regenerate after the rut
If possible, weaned calves should be kept separate and fed extra during the first winter
An elk’s weight at the end of October is directly proportional to its weight at the end of March
The calorie intake of an elk is twice as much in the summer as it is in the winter. Feed elk very well in the summer to achieve optimum velvet weights and calving percentages
Farmers can put elk on self-feed if they slowly bring them up to that consumption level (full ration)
Remember: Feed is the most important part of managing your elk herd
DO: Feed the best possible feed. You will get better results, and it costs less because of less waste. Elk pick through poor-quality feed to get the good. Make sure the ration is well-balanced with an adequate supply of copper and selenium
DON’T: Pasture elk exclusively on fescue or use feeds with urea as a source of protein

Animal Health

Elk are hardy livestock with natural immunity to most diseases Although they can contract normal bovine diseases, they are not prone to do so
Internal and external parasites are of concern if you tend to over-pasture or keep your elk too closely confined
Consult your veterinarian for the proper drug to treat the parasite. Warning signs are the same as for any domestic herd animal:

Animal off by itself
Head down, ears back, watery eyes, limping
3. Off feed, swollen body parts, abscesses, lumps
4. Loss of hair or condition
If you do suspect a problem, call a vet or an experienced elk farmer

Handling Facilities, Fencing & Transportation

Plan before you start. Check with OEBA (www.oeba.ca) and with as many elk breeders as possible
Elk, like any animal, must be taught respect for the handler
Walls of the handling facility should be a minimum of eight feet high
Solid walls, under a roof, are recommended
Farm layout including the positioning of gates and alleyways is critical for proper movement of animals
A fence should be a minimum of seven feet high and constructed of high-tensile wire
Treated wood or steel posts should be 10-12 feet long and a maximum of 24 feet apart
Elk can be easily moved in enclosed livestock trailers
They need room and cannot be crowded during transport

Start-Up Tips

Plan before you begin
Contact your local Ministry of Agriculture for regulations that may affect your elk farm
Contact local elk farmers in this directory and OEBA (www.oeba.ca) for additional information on costs of animals, fencing, feed, etc.
Purchase your stock and fencing equipment from reputable farmers and dealers
Set up a record keeping system to account for expenses and animal records
Elk are a very attractive investment
There are a number of options to explore:

Private ownership
Share farming arrangements between investors and landowners
Partnerships
Corporate structure

Portions of this article reprinted with permission of: NAEBA